Eriboll, Ullapool, Lochinver
or, the pleasures of changing weather
were not many sheep in the morning around my car, but I felt almost my whole
body itching. The reason were bites by flies not bigger than 1mm, but appearing
in groups of millions and hence causing terrible destruction. How they got at my
feet in the sleeping bag is yet unclear. My face at any rate looks like I stuck
it into a bee house, and it sure feels similarly.
My goal for today was to see a part of the northwest, using those famous one-lane roads, many of which even aren't on the map. I also included a trip to the next gas station, about 30 miles away from where I wanted to go, in today's plan. First, when visiting a cave in Durness, I met again my new German friends. They just were on their way to dive in the cave, with all that rubbery stuff such people tend to wear, which I found rather disturbing given the temperature of the air, forget the water. But I am sure they survived.
While the weather forecast was rather positive, the real life looked differently. Hoping that this was to change, I first got gas and later on the weather indeed improved dramatically. Kodak certainly appreciated that, since my consumption of their LPZ film soon reached unknown peaks. I even took pictures from the middle of a river, taking full advantage of my rubber boots. I called it "all or nothing", having most of my gear in my backpack -- but fortunately I stayed over water.
Together with some Swedish and German tourists we stared at the unbelievably blue sea around sunset. The water here is truly clean and the beach is white, hence the bright blue color of the sea. This is very much in contrast to the local streams and lakes; regardless where you look you can see uncountable sheep, which produce different sorts of exhaust. The frequent rain then flushes everything down and hence the countless little lakes have a dramatic brownish color, partially covered by the typical foam. While there is no other source of pollution here, it is advisable to watch where you put your feet.